Caye Caulker: go slow on Belize's favourite little island

Why go

Caye Caulker is the island most visitors fall for. It is small enough to walk end to end in under half an hour, everyone seems to say hello, and the reef is a short boat ride away. Days revolve around snorkelling, swimming, lazy lunches and sunset at the Split. It is also one of the best value places to stay on the coast.

The island, explained

• **The village** runs along Front Street and Middle Street, with guesthouses, tour shops, bakeries and grills. Everything is within walking distance.
• **The Split** at the north end of the village is a channel cut by Hurricane Hattie in 1961. Today it is the island's swimming spot and social centre, with a bar, a deck and clear water.
• **The south end** is quieter, with the airstrip, mangroves and a few more peaceful places to stay.
• **North Caye Caulker**, across the Split, is mostly mangrove and protected forest, with a few resorts reached by boat.

What to do

The signature day is a **snorkel trip** to the reef, usually combining Hol Chan Marine Reserve, Shark Ray Alley and a coral garden, sometimes with a stop to look for **manatees**. Tours leave from the front docks daily; book with licensed guides and follow their rules on not touching wildlife. The **Caye Caulker Marine Reserve** right offshore is good for snorkelling too.

Divers can head to the outer reef, Turneffe Atoll and the **Great Blue Hole**. Sailing trips run between Caye Caulker and Placencia over several days, camping on small cayes. Closer to home, kayak or paddleboard the calm western side, visit the small mangrove forest reserve, take a sunset cruise and swim at the Split. Kitesurfing is popular from about November to June, when the trade winds blow.

What and where to eat

Caye Caulker eats on the street. In lobster season, grills set up along Front Street serving lobster, fish and chicken with rice and beans or coconut rice. Try a fresh fruit smoothie, banana bread or coconut bread from a bakery, ceviche, and fry jacks for breakfast. Errolyn's House of Fry Jacks is a local institution, and Wish Willy's is a beloved, ramshackle backyard grill.

Where to stay

Guesthouses and small hotels near Front Street put you in the middle of things. For more peace, choose the south end or the few places across the Split. There are dorms and simple rooms for budget travellers and boutique options for couples. Book ahead in the dry season and around Easter and Christmas.

Getting there and around

Water taxis from Belize City take about forty five minutes, and boats continue to San Pedro. Small planes land on the island's airstrip. On the island, walk, rent a bicycle or use golf cart taxis for luggage. Most guesthouses are a short stroll from the dock.

Staying safe

Caye Caulker is relaxed and friendly, but theft from rooms and from the beach does happen. Lock your door, use a safe, do not leave valuables at the Split and take care cycling at night without lights. Swim only where it is safe, as boats use the Split channel, and never swim drunk.