San Ignacio and Cayo: jungle, rivers and Maya ruins

Why go

Cayo is Belize's adventure country. Mornings start with mist over the rainforest and the calls of howler monkeys, and the days are spent climbing temples, wading into caves and swimming in rivers. San Ignacio itself is friendly and easy, with a mix of Mestizo, Maya, Creole, Garifuna and Mennonite people, a busy Saturday market and good, inexpensive food.

The area, explained

• **San Ignacio town** sits on a hill above the Macal River, with Burns Avenue as its pedestrian-friendly heart of restaurants, cafés and tour offices.
• **Santa Elena**, across the river, is its twin town with more shops and the main road east.
• **Bullet Tree Falls** and the **Macal River valley** hold many of the jungle lodges, some reached by rough dirt roads.
• **Mountain Pine Ridge**, to the south, is a cool upland of pine forest, waterfalls and swimming holes on the way to Caracol.
• **Benque Viejo del Carmen** is the border town for Guatemala and Tikal.

What to do

**Xunantunich** is the easiest major ruin to visit, reached by a hand-cranked ferry across the Mopan River. Climb El Castillo for views over the forest into Guatemala. **Cahal Pech**, on a hill in San Ignacio itself, is small but worth an hour. **Caracol**, deep in the Chiquibul forest, was one of the largest Maya cities and its Caana pyramid is still among the tallest buildings in Belize. It is a long drive, usually on a guided day trip with stops at Rio On Pools and Big Rock Falls.

**Actun Tunichil Muknal**, the ATM cave, is the most famous experience in Cayo: you swim and wade through a river cave to chambers holding Maya pottery and skeletons, including the calcified Crystal Maiden. It must be done with a licensed guide, takes a full day and requires reasonable fitness. Cameras are not allowed.

Other favourites include the **Green Iguana Conservation Project**, tubing through **Barton Creek Cave** or **Caves Branch**, canoeing on the Macal River, the medicinal plant trail at a local lodge, birdwatching and day trips across the border to **Tikal** in Guatemala, with the right paperwork. Belmopan, the capital, is on the way from Belize City, and the **Blue Hole National Park** and St Herman's Cave sit on the Hummingbird Highway nearby.

What and where to eat

San Ignacio has a great food scene for its size. Try tamales, tacos and salbutes from stalls, garnaches at the Saturday market, Mennonite cheese and baked goods, and stew chicken with rice and beans. Pop's Restaurant is famous for breakfast, Erva's and Hode's Place are local favourites, and Guava Limb Café is a good choice for a relaxed dinner.

Where to stay

Stay in town for budget guesthouses and easy restaurants. Choose a jungle lodge along the Macal or Mopan Rivers or in Mountain Pine Ridge for nature, birdsong and a sense of escape. Many lodges include tours and transfers, which helps since public transport into the hills is limited.

Getting there and around

San Ignacio is around two hours west of Belize City by road. Shuttles and local buses run along the George Price Highway. Most sights are best reached on guided tours, which handle rough roads and park rules. Taxis are easy to find in town, and Xunantunich and Cahal Pech are close.

Staying safe

Cayo is generally safe, but travel near the Guatemalan border, including the Caracol road, has seen occasional robberies; tours to Caracol often travel in convoy with police or military escorts. Follow your guide's advice in caves and rivers, which can flood after heavy rain.