Salzburg: a first-timer's guide to Mozart's city

Why go

Salzburg feels like a stage set: church domes and towers against green hills, horse-drawn carriages on cobbled squares and the fortress glowing above it all at night. It is also a real working city, with student bars, beer gardens and markets, and only a short ride from some of Austria's most beautiful lake and mountain scenery.

The old town

The **Altstadt** sits on the left bank of the river. Walk **Getreidegasse**, the famous shopping lane with its wrought-iron guild signs, and find **Mozart's Birthplace** at number nine, now a museum. The **Cathedral**, **Residenzplatz** and **Domplatz** form the centre of the old prince-archbishops' city. At **St Peter's Abbey** the atmospheric cemetery and catacombs are set into the cliff. On the right bank, **Mirabell Palace and Gardens** are free to wander and famous from The Sound of Music, and Mozart's Residence on Makartplatz tells the story of his later years in the city.

Hohensalzburg and the hills

**Hohensalzburg Fortress** is one of the largest intact medieval castles in Europe. Ride the funicular up or walk the steep lane, then explore the state rooms and ramparts for sweeping views. From the fortress a footpath runs along the **Mönchsberg** ridge through woods to the Museum der Moderne and its terrace, where a lift drops back down to the old town. On the opposite bank, the **Kapuzinerberg** offers a quieter climb with a view back across the domes.

Music and festivals

The **Salzburg Festival** runs from late July to the end of August, with opera, theatre and concerts. Tickets for top performances sell out months ahead, though there are also free screenings and open rehearsals. The Mozart Week in late January and concerts in the Mozarteum and the fortress run through the year. In December, the **Christkindlmarkt** fills Domplatz and Residenzplatz.

Food and drink

Try **Salzburger Nockerl**, a soufflé of three peaks meant to echo the hills around the city, and the original Mozartkugel chocolates from Café Konditorei Fürst. The **Augustiner Bräu** in Mülln is a vast monastery brewery where you fetch your beer in a stone mug and eat at long tables under chestnut trees. **St Peter Stiftskulinarium** claims to be one of the oldest restaurants in Europe. The Grünmarkt on Universitätsplatz is good for a snack.

Day trips

**Hellbrunn Palace**, with its trick fountains, is a short bus ride south. The salt mines at **Hallein** and the **Eisriesenwelt** ice caves near Werfen are easy by train. Lake country is close: St Wolfgang, St Gilgen and Fuschl by post bus, and Hallstatt and the Salzkammergut as a longer day out. Berchtesgaden and the Eagle's Nest are just across the German border.

Where to stay and getting around

Stay in the old town or on the right bank around **Linzer Gasse** and **Mirabell** for easy walking. Many guests use the Salzburg Card, which covers most museums, the funicular and public transport. The main station has fast trains to Vienna and Innsbruck. Plan your days with the free trip planner.

Tips for a smooth visit

Salzburg's main sights cluster in a small area, so mornings are the best time for the fortress and Mozart's Birthplace before tour groups arrive. Wear sturdy shoes for cobbles and steep lanes. Pack an umbrella, since the city is famous for its persistent rain, and many concerts and museums make perfect wet-day plans.