Escaldes-Engordany: spas, art and the Madriu valley

Why go

Escaldes is where Andorra relaxes. After a day on the slopes or the trails, the warm lagoons of Caldea are the reward, and the streets around them are full of cafés, hotels and shops. Yet within minutes you can be climbing into one of the most unspoilt valleys in the Pyrenees, protected because it shows how mountain people lived and farmed for a thousand years.

Caldea

**Caldea** is the landmark you cannot miss: a glass building with a tall spire, home to one of the largest thermal spas in southern Europe. Inside are indoor and outdoor lagoons fed by natural hot spring water, jacuzzis, saunas, Turkish baths and treatment areas. **Inúu**, the adults only section, is calmer and more exclusive. Book online in busy periods and check the age rules for children before you go.

Art and history

On Avinguda Carlemany, the **Museu Carmen Thyssen Andorra** hosts changing exhibitions drawn from one of Europe's great private art collections. The **Centre d'Art d'Escaldes-Engordany** shows contemporary work. In the old quarter, the little stone **Pont de la Tosca** bridge and old houses hint at the village Escaldes once was.

Engolasters

Above the town, a road and a walking trail climb to **Engolasters**, where a forest lake sits in pine woods and the tiny Romanesque church of **Sant Miquel d'Engolasters** stands alone on a meadow with its tall bell tower. The **Camí de les Pardines** is an easy, well kept path with viewpoints that links the town to the lake, a lovely half day for families.

The Madriu-Perafita-Claror valley

This glacial valley was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list for its cultural landscape: stone shepherds' huts, terraces, old paths and the remains of iron forges, all in a wild setting with no roads. A path from the edge of Escaldes climbs through forest to meadows and high lakes. Strong walkers can continue to the **Refugi de l'Illa**, a staffed mountain hut, for an overnight stay. Go between June and October, start early and check the weather, since storms build quickly on summer afternoons.

Shopping

Avinguda Carlemany continues the shopping street from the capital, with fashion brands, perfume, jewellery and the **Illa Carlemany** shopping centre. Prices are often lower than across the border on alcohol, tobacco, perfume and some electronics, but compare, and know your customs allowances before you load the boot.

Food and drink

Escaldes has a wide choice of restaurants, from hotel dining rooms to tapas bars and traditional bordes on the edge of town. Try local cured sausages such as bringuer and girella, mountain cheeses and trout. The summer **Escaldes-Engordany Jazz Festival** brings free street concerts and evening shows.

Where to stay

Hotels around Caldea suit spa breaks and couples; larger hotels along the main avenue suit shoppers and families. Prices peak in ski season and holiday weekends.

Practical tips

Escaldes and Andorra la Vella are easily walkable as one town. The hospital, Nostra Senyora de Meritxell, is in Escaldes. Bring a swimsuit and flip flops for Caldea, and layers for the mountain trails.

A suggested day

Start with a morning walk on the Camí de les Pardines to Engolasters lake and the chapel of Sant Miquel, then come down for lunch in town. Spend the afternoon at the Thyssen museum or browsing Avinguda Carlemany, and finish with an evening session at Caldea, when the outdoor lagoons glow under the mountains.