The Albanian Riviera: a first-timer's guide to the Ionian coast

Why go

The water here is some of the clearest in the Mediterranean, the coast is backed by dramatic mountains, and the towns still feel relaxed outside peak weeks. You can swim, eat fresh fish, explore ancient ruins and drive one of Europe's great coastal roads in a single trip.

The main stops

**Sarandë** is the largest town, with a long seafront promenade, plenty of restaurants and hotels, and ferries across to Corfu. Above it, **Lëkurësi Castle** offers sunset views over the bay.

**Ksamil**, south of Sarandë, is famous for small islands a short swim or pedal boat ride offshore and for white pebble beaches. It is beautiful but very crowded in July and August, when beach clubs fill every space.

**Himarë** combines an old hilltop village and castle with a pleasant town beach and nearby coves such as **Livadhi** and **Llamani**. **Dhërmi** and **Jalë** further north are known for beach bars and summer music festivals, while the beach at **Gjipe**, at the mouth of a canyon, is reached on foot or by boat.

The **Llogara Pass** climbs to around a thousand metres through pine forest before plunging down to the sea, with one of the finest views in the country. **Porto Palermo** has a small Ottoman castle on a peninsula built for Ali Pasha.

Butrint

**Butrint National Park**, south of Ksamil, protects an ancient city inhabited from Greek times through the Roman, Byzantine and Venetian eras, set among woods and lagoons. Highlights include the theatre, baptistery, basilica and the Lion Gate. Go early or late in summer to avoid heat and tour groups, and allow at least two hours.

Nearby

The **Blue Eye** spring is inland from Sarandë, and **Gjirokastër** makes an easy day trip or the next stop. **Vlorë**, north of the Llogara Pass, is a large city with a long beach and the start point for boat trips to the **Karaburun peninsula** and **Sazan island**, part of a protected marine park.

Where to stay

Sarandë has the widest choice, from seafront hotels to apartments, and the best bus links. Ksamil is mostly small guesthouses and is closest to Butrint. Himarë suits travellers wanting a calmer middle point, and Dhërmi has boutique hotels and lively summer nights. In August, book well ahead everywhere.

Getting there and around

Buses run from Tirana to Sarandë, Himarë and Vlorë, and local buses link Sarandë, Ksamil and Butrint in summer. Coastal buses between Sarandë and Vlorë stop at villages along the way but are less frequent outside summer. Many beaches are reached by boat taxi from the main towns. The coast road is narrow and winding, with sharp bends and slow traffic, so allow more time than the distance suggests.

When to go

June and September are ideal, with warm sea and fewer people. July and August are hot, busy and in high demand for rooms. From November to April many beach businesses close, though Sarandë stays open year round.

Practical tips

Bring cash for beach loungers, boat taxis and small restaurants, although cards are increasingly accepted in larger places. Sun is intense from June to September, so carry water and reef safe sunscreen. Some beaches have steep access paths.