St Peter's Basilica and Square: a first-timer's guide

Why go

Even if you have seen a hundred churches, St Peter's stops you in the doorway. The scale is hard to grasp: the cherubs holding the holy water stoups are taller than most adults, and the lettering around the base of the dome is around two metres high. Yet the details are just as moving, from Michelangelo's Pietà just inside the door to the worn bronze foot of the statue of Saint Peter, polished by centuries of pilgrims.

St Peter's Square

Bernini designed the square in the seventeenth century as two curving colonnades, like arms embracing visitors. Stand on one of the two round marble discs between the obelisk and the fountains and the four rows of columns line up into one. The square is open at all hours and costs nothing to visit. The Swiss Guard stand at the Arch of the Bells and the Bronze Door, and the window of the papal apartments looks down from the right.

Inside the basilica

Highlights include the **Pietà**, now behind glass, Bernini's bronze **Baldacchino** over the papal altar, the **Chair of Saint Peter** in the apse, and the tombs and altarpieces, most of which are mosaic copies of famous paintings. Beneath the floor, the **Vatican Grottoes** hold the tombs of many popes, including Saint John Paul II's original resting place. Entry to the grottoes is usually part of the basilica route. The **Treasury Museum** has a separate ticket.

Climbing the dome

The dome climb starts from the right side of the portico. You can take a lift to the roof level and then climb the remaining steps, or climb all the way. The last section is narrow, sloping and tight, so it is not suitable for anyone with heart problems, claustrophobia or limited mobility. The reward is an inside walkway looking down into the basilica, then an outside terrace with a view over the square, the gardens and all of Rome. Check the official basilica site for current ticket options.

The Scavi

Under the grottoes lies a Roman necropolis, the city of the dead, which excavations in the twentieth century linked to the tomb of Saint Peter. Small group tours are run by the Excavations Office and sell out weeks or months ahead, with an age limit for children. Apply early through the official Scavi site.

Papal events

On most Sundays at noon, when he is in Rome, the Pope prays the Angelus from a window above the square, with no ticket required. On many Wednesday mornings the general audience takes place in the square or in the Paul VI Hall, with free tickets from the Prefecture of the Papal Household. Christmas, Holy Week and Easter bring huge crowds and some closures. Check the official Vatican calendar before you fix your dates, as the basilica can close to visitors during ceremonies.

Practical tips

Arrive at opening time or late in the afternoon to avoid the worst queues. Security is airport style, so leave large bags and sharp objects behind. Cover shoulders and knees: staff refuse entry to people in short shorts, short skirts or sleeveless tops. Be wary of anyone in the square offering to help you skip the line: entry to the basilica is free, and the official line is the only one. Toilets are beside the colonnade, and the Vatican Post Office is by the right hand colonnade if you want to send a postcard.