Kampong Glam and Little India: Singapore's heritage quarters

Kampong Glam

Kampong Glam was once the seat of the Malay sultan of Singapore, and his former palace is now the Malay Heritage Centre. The neighbourhood is dominated by the golden domes of the Sultan Mosque, which welcomes visitors outside prayer times, with robes provided for those who need to cover up. Palm lined Bussorah Street frames the mosque perfectly and is full of cafés and small restaurants.

Around the mosque, Arab Street has traded in textiles, batik and carpets for generations, while Haji Lane is a narrow lane of murals, independent boutiques and small bars that comes alive in the evening. On North Bridge Road, Zam Zam has served murtabak, a stuffed and pan fried flatbread, for more than a century.

Little India

A short walk north, Little India is louder and brighter. Serangoon Road is lined with jewellery shops, flower garland stalls, spice merchants and sweet shops. The Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, dedicated to the goddess Kali, is one of the busiest temples in the city, and the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple further up the road is the starting point of the Thaipusam procession. The Indian Heritage Centre explains how the community shaped Singapore, and the Abdul Gafoor Mosque on Dunlop Street has an unusual sundial facade.

Don't miss the Tan Teng Niah House, a former Chinese villa painted in every colour of the rainbow, and the murals tucked down side lanes.

Food

This is one of the best eating areas in Singapore. Tekka Centre combines a wet market with a hawker centre selling biryani, thosai, roti prata and teh tarik, the frothy pulled tea. Komala Vilas serves vegetarian South Indian meals on banana leaves, while Banana Leaf Apolo is known for fish head curry. In Kampong Glam, try nasi padang, mee rebus and Malay desserts. Late at night, Swee Choon Tim Sum on Jalan Besar is a local favourite.

Shopping

Mustafa Centre is a sprawling store that sells almost everything, from electronics to spices, and it stays open around the clock. Little India Arcade is good for henna, incense and souvenirs, and the textile shops of Arab Street sell silk and batik by the metre. Bargaining is not usual in most shops, but it is fine to ask politely about prices for larger purchases.

Festivals

Deepavali, the festival of lights, brings street light ups and busy bazaars to Little India each year. Thaipusam sees devotees carry elaborate kavadi on a walk from Little India to Tank Road. During Ramadan, the area around the Sultan Mosque and the bazaar at Geylang Serai fill with food stalls after sunset, and Hari Raya Puasa marks the end of the fasting month.

Etiquette

Cover shoulders and knees when entering mosques and temples, take off your shoes, and ask before photographing people at prayer. Little India can be very crowded on Sunday evenings, when many migrant workers gather on their day off. It is safe, but be patient with the crowds.

Where to stay and how to get there

Both quarters have good value hotels and hostels in converted shophouses, and Bugis has larger hotels close to the MRT. Bugis, Little India, Rochor and Jalan Besar stations serve the area, and the city centre is just a few stops away. Use the free trip planner to fit the quarters into your days.