Babeldaob: waterfalls, monoliths and the capital

Why go

After a few days on the water, Babeldaob shows you another Palau: rolling hills, jungle streams, taro fields and villages where life moves slowly. A paved ring road, often called the Compact Road, circles the island and links its ten states, so you can see the main sights in a day with a tour.

Highlights

**Ngardmau Waterfall** is the tallest waterfall in Palau. A trail leads down through jungle and along a river to the falls, where you can cool off in the spray. Wear shoes that can get wet and pay the state's small entry fee at the visitor centre.

At the northern tip in Ngarchelong, the **Badrulchau Stone Monoliths** stand on a grassy slope above the sea, dozens of carved basalt stones whose origins are wrapped in legend. They are one of the most mysterious sites in Micronesia.

The **Belau National Capitol** at Ngerulmud in Melekeok is a surprisingly grand white building on a hill, completed when the government moved from Koror in 2006. Nearby is **Lake Ngardok**, the largest natural freshwater lake in Micronesia and a nature reserve.

The **Airai Bai**, near the airport, is one of the oldest traditional meeting houses still standing, its gable painted with legends. A bai was where the chiefs and men of the village met, and it is a powerful symbol of Palauan identity. Ask before entering and follow your guide's lead.

Off the beaten path

Climb **Mount Ngerchelchuus**, the highest point in Palau, for views to both coasts. Explore the mangroves of **Ngatpang**, walk the stone paths and taro patches of **Ngaraard**, or watch for dolphins over the **Ebiil Channel** in Ngarchelong. Rusting Japanese tanks and guns near the airport recall the war.

Getting around

There is no public bus. Most visitors join a Babeldaob land tour from Koror, which includes transport, guiding and entry fees. Taxis can also be hired for the day. Allow a full day to see the north and the capitol together, and two days if you want to hike.

Food and stays

Babeldaob has few restaurants, so tours usually include a packed lunch. Roadside stands sell coconuts, bananas and snacks. A handful of small hotels sit near the airport in Airai, useful before an early flight, but most people return to Koror each night.

Respect

Land on Babeldaob belongs to clans and states, and many sites charge a small state fee. Dress modestly in villages, ask before photographing people and never take stones, shells or plants from cultural sites.

A sample day

Leave Koror early and cross the Friendship Bridge to Airai, stopping at the old bai. Drive up the west side to Ngardmau and walk to the waterfall before the midday heat. Continue north to Ngarchelong for the Badrulchau monoliths and a picnic with sea views, then come down the east coast through Ngaraard and Ngiwal to the capitol at Melekeok, which glows in the late afternoon light. You will be back in Koror for dinner, tired, happy and with a much fuller picture of the country. Pack water, a swimsuit, water shoes and a dry change of clothes.