Monaco-Ville: a first-timer's guide to the Rock

Why go

The Rock is where Monaco's story began, and it feels completely different from the glitz of Monte-Carlo. Pastel houses line narrow lanes, gardens hang over the cliffs, and from the edges you look straight down on the yachts of Port Hercule on one side and the marina of Fontvieille on the other. Almost everything here can be seen on foot in half a day.

The Prince's Palace

The **Palais Princier** sits on Place du Palais, guarded by the Compagnie des Carabiniers du Prince. Each day just before midday, the **changing of the guard** takes place in front of the palace. Arrive early for a good spot, especially in summer. In season, the state apartments are usually open for visits, with painted galleries, throne room and the Hercules gallery. When the prince is in residence, a flag flies above the palace.

The cathedral

A short walk away stands the **Cathédrale de Monaco**, built in white stone in the late nineteenth century on the site of an older church. Inside are the tombs of Princess Grace and Prince Rainier III, as well as earlier princes. It is an active place of worship, so dress modestly and keep quiet during services.

The Oceanographic Museum

At the seaward end of the Rock, the **Musée Océanographique** clings to the cliff more than eighty metres above the waves. Founded by Prince Albert I, a pioneering ocean scientist, it holds a large aquarium with Mediterranean and tropical tanks, a shark lagoon, historic research collections and a rooftop terrace with sweeping views. Allow two hours, more with children.

Gardens and quiet corners

The **Jardins Saint-Martin** wind along the southern cliffs with shady paths and benches. Smaller sights include the baroque **Chapelle de la Miséricorde** and the **Chapelle de la Visitation**, which shows religious art. At the eastern tip, **Fort Antoine** has become an open air theatre for summer shows.

Food and shopping

Restaurants on the Rock tend to be tourist focused, but a few serve good local dishes such as barbagiuan and stocafi. Look in the side streets rather than on the main square. **Rue Basse** and the lanes around it sell souvenirs, and the **Chocolaterie de Monaco** makes an easy gift.

Getting up and down

You can walk up the old **Rampe Major** from Place d'Armes, a stone ramp of steps and slopes. Public lifts also run from the car park below and from the Fontvieille side. City buses climb to Place de la Visitation, which is handy for anyone who finds hills hard.

Practical tips

Cars are restricted on the Rock, so it stays calm. Most sights close for lunch or have set hours, and the palace apartments open only part of the year. Check opening times on official sites before you go, and avoid the busy midday rush if you are not there for the guard change.

A suggested half day

Arrive by bus or on foot from the port by mid morning. Visit the Oceanographic Museum first, while it is quieter, then walk through the Jardins Saint-Martin to the cathedral. Be on Place du Palais a little before midday for the changing of the guard, then tour the state apartments if they are open. Finish with lunch in a side street and a slow walk down the Rampe Major to the market at La Condamine. Families can add the aquarium's touch tanks, while history lovers can spend longer in the chapels and the palace.