St. George's: a first-timer's guide to Grenada's capital

Why go

St. George's is often called one of the most beautiful harbour towns in the Caribbean. The setting does most of the work: a horseshoe bay, the old volcanic crater of the Lagoon beside it, and green hills behind. It is where Grenadians shop, work, go to school and go to church, so a visit shows you everyday life on the island. Most visitors stay in Grand Anse and spend a day here, but a night or two in town suits travellers who like walking and local food.

Things to do

Start on the **Carenage**, the curved waterfront where boats unload and the old warehouses now hold shops and restaurants. Walk up to **Fort George**, built by the French in the early 1700s, for the classic view over the harbour and the Lagoon. From there the **Sendall Tunnel**, cut through the ridge in the 1890s, takes you to the market side of town.

The **Market Square** is busiest on Saturday morning, when farmers sell nutmeg, cinnamon, cocoa balls, fruit and vegetables and vendors make fresh juice. The **Grenada National Museum** on Young Street sits in an old French barracks and covers Amerindian life, slavery, the spice trade and the events of 1979 to 1983. Nearby, **House of Chocolate** explains the island's cocoa story with tastings, and **Art Fabrik** makes hand painted batik.

Climb or take a taxi up Richmond Hill to **Fort Frederick**, finished by the British in the 1790s, for the widest panorama on the island. The churches on Church Street, including the **Anglican church** and the **Roman Catholic cathedral**, were badly damaged by Hurricane Ivan in 2004 and have been restored.

Just north of town, the **Molinere Underwater Sculpture Park** sits in shallow, clear water. Dive and snorkel boats from Grand Anse visit it daily, and it is one of the island's signature experiences.

Food and drink

The Carenage has restaurants with harbour views serving callaloo soup, lambi (conch), fish and rotis. On the market side, small cookshops serve stewed chicken, macaroni pie and provisions at lunchtime. Look for fresh nutmeg ice cream, sorrel in December and cocoa tea at breakfast. **Port Louis Marina** on the Lagoon has a handful of bars and cafés for a calm evening drink.

Festivals

St. George's is the centre of **Spicemas**, Grenada's carnival, which peaks in the second week of August. J'ouvert begins before dawn with Jab Jab revellers covered in black oil, and the parades and soca shows run for days. **Independence Day** on 7 February brings parades to the national stadium.

Where to stay

The town has a few small hotels and guesthouses on the hills and along the Lagoon, good for value and local life. Most travellers stay in Grand Anse, ten minutes away by minibus, where the beach and the big hotels are.

Getting there and around

From the airport, a taxi takes around twenty to thirty minutes. Minibuses run from the main bus terminal to every corner of the island, each route numbered on the front. The town is steep, so wear good shoes, carry water and give yourself time for the hills.

Good to know

The centre is lively by day and quieter at night. Keep valuables out of sight in crowds, especially on cruise days and during carnival. Shops close earlier on Saturday and most are closed on Sunday.