Český Krumlov: a guide to Czechia's fairytale castle town

Why go

Few places in Europe keep their medieval and Renaissance layout so completely. Český Krumlov grew rich under the Rožmberk family and later the Eggenbergs and Schwarzenbergs, then fell quiet for much of the twentieth century, which saved it from modern rebuilding. Today the old town is car free, the river is lined with terraces and the castle tower glows at night. Day trippers fill the lanes at midday, but evenings and early mornings are magical.

The castle

The **Český Krumlov Castle** complex has around forty buildings and five courtyards. You can walk the courtyards and the long covered **Cloak Bridge** for free, climb the painted **castle tower** for the best view of the town, and join guided tours of the state rooms. The highlight is the **baroque castle theatre**, one of the best preserved of its kind in the world, with original stage machinery; tours run in the warmer months and book up early. Behind the castle, the terraced **castle gardens** have a revolving open air theatre.

One quirk delights children: bears have lived in the castle moat for centuries, and you can still see them from the bridge.

The old town

Cross the river to the **Inner Town**, with the main square, the Gothic **Church of St Vitus** and lanes full of small museums. The **Egon Schiele Art Centrum** remembers the Austrian painter who lived here and was briefly chased out for scandalous behaviour. The **Seminary Garden** has one of the classic views back to the castle.

On the river

In summer, rafting or canoeing the Vltava through the town is the most fun way to see it, sliding down small weirs between the houses. Several outfitters rent boats with transport back, and trips can run from an hour to a full day downstream. The water is gentle, but check conditions in spring when levels can be high.

Food and drink

South Bohemia is known for freshwater fish, especially carp and trout from the region's famous ponds, plus game, potato dishes and Budvar beer from nearby České Budějovice. Riverside terraces are the place for lunch, and a few cosy cellar restaurants serve medieval style feasts by candlelight.

Where to stay

Stay inside the old town if you can: small guesthouses in historic houses are the town's great charm. Expect stairs and no car access. Book well ahead for summer weekends and the Five Petalled Rose Festival in June, when the town fills with costumes, jousting and markets.

Getting there and around

Direct buses from Prague take about three hours and are the easiest choice. Trains usually need a change in České Budějovice but are scenic. The old town is entirely walkable. Nearby, **Hluboká Castle** looks like a white English Tudor fantasy, and **Lake Lipno** offers a treetop walkway and cycling.

Tips

Visit the castle tower and gardens early. The town is busiest from late morning to late afternoon in summer, so an overnight stay changes the experience completely. In winter many attractions close or shorten hours, but the snowy town is beautiful and quiet.