Mostar: Old Bridge, bazaar and Herzegovina day trips

Why go

Mostar is beautiful, compact and full of history, and it is the best base for the south of the country. Herzegovina also has its own food and wine culture, with grilled meats, fresh trout and local Žilavka and Blatina wines.

Top things to do

Cross the **Stari Most** and watch the members of the local divers' club leap into the cold river from the top, a tradition going back centuries; the big diving competition is held each summer. Wander **Kujundžiluk**, the old bazaar street of copper and craft shops, then climb the minaret of the **Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque** for the classic view of the bridge. The small **Crooked Bridge** nearby is a lovely quiet corner.

The **Old Bridge Museum** in the tower tells how the bridge was built and rebuilt, and the **Museum of War and Genocide Victims** explains the 1990s. Walk along the old front line on the **Bulevar** and **Šantićeva** street, where shell marked buildings still stand beside new ones. The **Partisan Memorial Cemetery**, an overgrown modernist monument, is a quiet, moving place.

Day trips

Just south, **Blagaj** is home to the **Blagaj Tekke**, a sixteenth century dervish house at the foot of a cliff where the Buna river rises from a cave. **Počitelj** is a stone village climbing a hillside above the Neretva, with a fortress tower and great views. The **Kravica waterfalls** form a wide curtain of cascades where you can swim in summer. Many visitors also go to the pilgrimage town of **Međugorje**.

Where to stay

Stay in or next to the **old town** for evenings by the bridge, or a few streets away for quieter, cheaper guesthouses with parking. Many small family run places offer a warm welcome and generous breakfasts.

Practical tips

The old town is very busy in the middle of the day in summer when coach tours from the coast arrive, so explore early or in the evening. Cobblestones are slippery and steep, so wear good shoes. July and August can be extremely hot. The train from Sarajevo through the Neretva canyon is one of the most scenic rides in Europe. Plan your days with the free trip planner.

Beyond the old town

Mostar has more to see than the bridge. The **Karađoz Bey Mosque** is one of the largest and finest in Herzegovina. The Catholic **Franciscan church** and its tall bell tower rise on the west bank, and the hilltop cross above town is visible from everywhere. The **Spanish Square** remembers Spanish peacekeepers who served here, and the old **Gymnasium** building is a striking Austro-Hungarian landmark.

Food and wine

Try **Herzegovinian pršut** ham, cheese, grilled trout from the Neretva and stuffed peppers. Restaurants with terraces over the river are popular at sunset. Local wineries in the surrounding hills, especially around **Čitluk** and **Međugorje**, offer tastings of Žilavka and Blatina.

Getting there

Mostar sits on the railway between Sarajevo and Čapljina, and buses link it with Sarajevo, Split and Dubrovnik. The bus and train stations are a short walk from the old town.