Dilijan: a first-timer's guide to Armenia's forest town

Why go

After the dry, open landscapes around Yerevan and Sevan, the drive through the Sevan tunnel into Dilijan's beech and oak forests feels like arriving in another country. The air is fresh, the pace slow and the monasteries hidden in the woods are among the most atmospheric in Armenia. It is a favourite with Yerevan families in summer and with hikers from spring to autumn.

Top things to do

**Haghartsin Monastery**, a short drive into the forest, is a cluster of tenth to thirteenth century churches in a clearing, with a refectory and ancient walnut trees. **Goshavank**, in a village east of town, was a great medieval centre of learning and has one of the most intricate khachkars in the country, carved like stone lace.

In the town itself, **Old Dilijan** on Sharambeyan Street is a restored row of traditional wooden balconied houses with craft workshops and a small museum. The **Dilijan Museum of Local Lore and Art** has a surprising collection of paintings and regional crafts.

For a gentle walk, head to **Parz Lake**, a small forest lake with a café and boats, and walk the marked trail from there to Goshavank. The smaller ruined monasteries of **Jukhtak Vank** and **Matosavank** are short walks into the woods from the edge of town.

Hiking

Dilijan is a hub of the **Transcaucasian Trail**, a long distance path through the Caucasus, and several well marked sections start nearby, including the walk between Dilijan and Haghartsin and the longer forest routes over the ridges. Dilijan National Park has information on trails, and local guesthouses can usually advise on conditions. Bring proper shoes: paths can be muddy after rain.

Beyond Dilijan

Further north east, the town of **Ijevan** is known for wine and carpets, and the village of **Yenokavan** has caves, a canyon and an adventure park with zip lines. Further north still, in Lori province, the UNESCO listed monasteries of **Haghpat** and **Sanahin** can be reached on a longer day trip.

Where to stay

Dilijan has guesthouses, family run homestays, small boutique hotels and a few larger resort hotels in the forest outside town. Staying in a guesthouse often means a home cooked dinner with produce from the garden. Book ahead for summer weekends and the autumn colour season.

Practical tips

Dilijan is noticeably cooler than Yerevan, so pack a layer even in summer and something warm from October onwards. The town is spread out along the river and hillsides, so a taxi app is useful between sights. Parts of Tavush province lie close to the border with Azerbaijan; check current government travel advice before travelling further east than Ijevan.

Eating in Dilijan

Dilijan's restaurants serve hearty forest food: mushrooms, trout, clay pot stews, herbs and honey. Many visitors find the best meals are the dinners served at their guesthouse, often with home made jams, cheeses, fruit vodka and vegetables from the garden. Cafés around the old town and the main square are pleasant for coffee and cake after a walk, and the town's mineral water is said to be good for the digestion.

Suggested plan

Arrive from Lake Sevan in the afternoon and wander Old Dilijan. Next morning visit Haghartsin, then walk from Parz Lake to Goshavank, and either stay a second night or continue north to the Debed canyon.